West Coast Trail

Park: Pacific Rim National Park, West Coast Trail region

77.0 km one way.

Terrain: Very rough
Approximate Elevations (in meters)
Start: 0End: 0
Minimum: 0Maximum: 183
Net Gain: 183Cumulative Gain: 
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Trailheads

Transportation is required at both ends.

Port Renfrew Trailhead: (110 km from Saanich Hall). Drive west from Victoria on highway 14 to Port Renfrew.

Bamfield Trailhead: There are two options for getting from Victoria to Bamfield by vehicle. The first takes you past Lake Cowichan along logging roads. For this route drive north from Victoria on the Trans-Canada highway (#1) to the the Lake Cowichan highway (BC#18) just north of Duncan. Turn west (left) and drive thru the village of Lake Cowichan, following road signs to Bamfield a 2 hr 15 min drive on a 120 km logging road. Hint: Just follow the power poles. If you want a map one can be obtained from the Tourist Information Booth at Cowichan Lake (just past the Rails End Restaurant). This is the quicker route but you should allow 4 hours to drive it.

The second route has you driving north on the Trans Canada highway (#1) to Nanaimo. From here you take highway #19 (the Nanaimo bypass) north until you come to the turnoff to highway #4 which leads west to Port Alberni. Follow the road signs to Bamfield (approximately 98km on a good, well maintained logging road).

Regardless of which route you will be driving on active logging roads.

Facilities available at the trailhead include:

Uses

BackpackStrenuous (backcountry permit required, fee charged).6 days one way.Best from mid April thru early October.

Description

This trail was originally constructed in the early 1900"s as a life-saving trail on the western shores of Vancouver Island. The area, known as "The Graveyard of the Pacific" claimed over 240 ships and many lives. The disaster that finally prompted the building of the "Shipwrecked Mariners Trail" was the 1906 loss of the Valencia, a steamship. Although within 100 feet of shore 117 of the 160 passengers and crew on board perished as rescuers both from shore and other boats were unable to reach the stricken vessel which grounded on a reef on a headland with no beach and sheer rock walls towering 100 feet above the water. The story of the Vanecia and other shipwrecks off the west coast makes fascinating reading and provides a good historical perspective before hiking the trail, read "Shipwrecks of British Columbia" by Fred Rogers (see our books page).

Although this trail can be hiked in either direction (and there are merits and drawbacks to each choice), the information in this page assumes travel is from north (Bamfield) to south (Port Renfrew).

The trail was taken over by Parks Canada in the 1973 when the Government of Canada proposed National Park status for the area (it remains a "National Park Preserve", not having reached official park status due to ongoing treaty negotiations). The trail has been improved considerably since this time but remains a test for the wilderness explorer requiring preparation for total self sufficiency. The hiker must be prepared to cross deep gullies on fallen trees (which can be slippery after rains), cross rivers on cable cars, climb tall ladders with heavy packs and climb steep slippery slopes (the notorious Cullite Creek has over 200 feet of ladders on both sides!). The section of the trail from Klanawa River to Carmanah Creek is the most picturesque section of the trail, including Tsusiat Falls.

There are approximately 150 bridges, 6 cable car crossings of rivers and 4 suspension bridges on the trail. In addition there are innumerable sections of boardwalk and other structures including ladders. The southern end of the trail is the most difficult (but the northern end has challenges as well).

Shuttle bus service is available to both Port Renfrew and Bamfield.

Reservations are difficult to come by but 6 spaces a day are kept aside for walk ons (these can be very difficult to get). This is a beach trail with many inland sections around headlands. It is VERY strenuous with many ladders and lots of MUD, sometimes well over your boot tops. The trail has ben described by some as "one of the most gruelling treks in North America".

The first 12km of the trail are not on the shore but along an old road. This section provides access to the Pachena Point lighthouse. You finally reach the shoreline at Michigan Creek. The next 10km provides the option of either hiking on the beach or, if tides are not favorable, going through the forest. This section ends at the Klanawa River which you must cross via a cable car. The trail continues, with some beach options, to Tsusiat Falls (25km) and then on to Nitinat Narrows which must be crossed by boat. (Note: The sea caves at Tsuquadra Point are large enough to set up tents inside and dry out gear.) From the narrows the trail proceeds to Carmanah Point (46km), this section features the abandoned village of Clo-oose. People from this village watched helplessly as the passengers and crew of the Valencia died died before their eyes. From here it is possible to walk the beach to Bonilla Point (48km) and then on to Vancouver Point at which point one has the option of confronting the infamous and very dangerous "Adrenaline Surge Channel" or taking the very difficult forest trail to the incredible suspension bridge over Logan Creek (56km). The next 6km are probably the most difficult on the trail, ladders, ladders and more ladders, leading to Camper Creek (62km). This section includes ladders that descend to Cullite Creek and then back up again, what must be over 200 rungs on both sides! Then it is on to Thrasher Cove (70km) before the final push to the Gordon River trailhead.

Features

This trail features activities (Bird watching (approximately 250 species have been spotted in Pacific Rim National Park)), animals (American Marten, American Mink, Black bear, Coastal black-tailed deer, Cougar, Raccoon, River otter, Weasel, Wolf), beaches, birds (Bald Eagle), forests (Douglas-fir and Western red cedar), marine mammals (Grey whale, Humpback whale, Orca, Sea lion, Seals), miscellaneous (Lighthouses), natural wonders (Storm watching), rivers, views and waterfalls.

Hazards

This trail is subject to severe west coast weather including copious amounts of rain at any time of the year. Fog, wind and cold can also occur at any time. The threat of hypothermia exists even during the summer due to fog and wind coupled with hiker fatigue. There are also some surge channels which cannot be crossed except with favorable tides. People have lost their lives in these surge channels! Some headlands must be negotiated at low tide. It is essential to have tide information and a watch in order to safely hike this trail. Ensure the tide information is stored in a waterproof bag. Also be alert for large ocean waves and swells. Many of the structures on the trail are showing their age, do not overload them! In particular do not have several people on any of the platforms at one time, just one or two people can easily move the cable cars across the rivers. To decrease the weight do not take your packs onto the platforms until you are ready to board the cable cars. This is a challenging trail, if you are a novice hiker this is not the trail for you, contact our club and do some of the easier backpacking trips before attempting this challenge. Should you be injured on this trail and be unable to continue Parks Canada will evacuate you provided the injury is legitimate. If possible wait at one of the following preferred evacution sites: Watch for wardens patrolling offshore in red or grey inflatable boats. If you are seriously injured and are unable to travel to a preferred site, be prepared to signal your location with a bright colored tent, jacket, etc. You should be prepared to wait up to 24 hours due to rough seas, high winds and/or poor visibility.

Note:Parks Canada may recover all the costs associated with search, rescue and evacuation operations.

Comments

This can be a very challenging trip and is recommended for experienced backpackers only. Less experienced backpackers might consider doing the north end of the trail from Bamfield to Tsusiat Falls or Nitinat Narrows.

Access is controlled by a quota system. Booking required phone: 1-800-HELLO BC/1-800-435-5622. Note: The maximum group size is 10.

Cost (2000) is approximately $120 per person (Cdn) for reservations, trail fees and river crossings at Nitnat and Port Renfrew.

Carry tide tables and know how to use them including how to adjust for the area you are in.

The book "Blisters and Bliss, A Trekkers Guide to the West Coast Trail" by David Foster and Wayne Aitken is an excellent resource book for those considering hiking this trail.

The spring of 2000 has been much wetter than usual with the result that the trail is currently (June 21, 2000) in rough shape. Some bridges are washed out and the trail has a lot of mud and standing water. Parks is struggling to deal with these issues, hopefully the situation will improve as we get into the summer sun.

Campsites along the trail

Michigan Creek12.0 km 0 meters
         		Water is available.
    Darling River14.0 km 0 meters
    • Pit toilet
    		Water is available.
    Tsocowis16.0 km 0 meters
    • Pit toilet
    		Water is available quality is good.
    Tsusiat Falls25.0 km 0 meters
    • Pit toilet
    		Water is plentiful quality is good.
    Cheewhat Beach36.5 km 0 meters
    • Pit toilet
    		Water is available.
    Cribs Creek42.0 km 0 meters
             		Water is unknown.
      Carmanah Creek46.0 km 0 meters
                 		Water is available.
        Bonilla Point48.0 km 0 meters
        • Pit toilet
        		Water is unknown.
        Walbran Creek53.2 km 0 meters
                     		Water is available.
          Logan Creek56.0 km 0 meters
          • Pit toilet
          		Water is available.
          Cullite Cove58.0 km 0 meters
          • Swimming
          • Pit toilet
          		Water is available.
          Camper Creek62.0 km 0 meters
                         		Water is available.
            Thrasher Cove70.5 km 0 meters
                             		Water is unknown.

              Water

              From streams and rivers along the route. Boil, filter or treat all water!

              History

              On February 22nd, 1906 the Valencia lost navigation abilityi and was travelling by dead reconnig. The captain missed the entrance to Juan de Fuca Strait by 40 miles and ended up on the rocks along the western shore of Vancouver Island. Six life boats were lowered as a precaution but 5 were capsized with only 1 making it to shore.

              For additional information see:

              Service-providers

              Trailhead Transportation
              West Coast Trail Express Inc.(250) 477-8700

              Other trails in Pacific Rim National Park

              Trail-conditions

              View trail condition reports for this trail.