Nootka Island Trail

Map

Nootka #92E/10

35.0 km one way.

Terrain: Very rough

Approximate Elevations (in meters)

Start End Minimum Maximum Gain

0 0 0 50 50

Louie Bay Trailhead: (368 km from Saanich Hall, ferry required). On Nootka Island. Best reached by float plane or water taxi from Gold River (also possible from Tofino or Tahasis). The following is a list of companies who provide transportation to this trailhead:

The distance quoted is to the dock in Gold River. Both the Uchuck and Air Nootka depart from this area, Parallel Aviation departs from Campbell River.

Must deplane into knee deep water so wear sandals and shorts!

Friendly Cove Trailhead: (368 km from Saanich Hall, ferry required). On Nootka Island. Best reached via the Uchuck a coastal steamer from either Gold River, by water taxi from either Gold River or Thasis or by float plane (either Air Nootka or Parallel Aviation). The distance quoted is to the dock in Gold River. Both the Uchuck and Air Nootka depart from this spot.

Uses

Backpack	Moderate to strenuous.	5 days one way.	Best from May thru September.

Description

This rugged backcountry trail leads between Louie Bay and Friendly Cove on the west coast of Nootka Island. You have to either take a water taxi (from various locations) or fly via a float plane from Gold River to the trailhead. Flying although more expensive provides a wonderful preview of the trail. The costs for flying depend on the number of people on the plane. We were a group of 8 (the maximum that I think Air Nootka can accommodate). Our cost for the flight were in the $90 per person neighbourhood (2003). Air Nootka has two smaller planes, one capable of carrying two, the other 4 (I think). Prices are higher for each of these options.

Another benefit of flying in is that you end up closer to the first beach. The trail through to it is one of the roughest on the trip. Fortunately it's only about 45 minutes long. It was fairly muddy when we did it (early July) and that's saying something considering how dry it was the year we did the trip.

If you travel by float plane to Louie Bay then be prepared to exit into the water. Wear water shoes and shorts for the exit. Change into your hiking boots once you are ashore. The hike to First Beach (also known as Third Beach) is less than an hour but involves bushwacking, logs, bogs and incredibly dense vegeitation (switching to long pants is recommended for this section).

If you travel by water taxi then disembark at either Ferrier Porint (see map courtesy of Ren L'Ecuye), or Louie Lagoon. The hike to First Beach is longer than the route from where the float plane lets you off.

For those spending an extra day at First Beach there's a couple of hike points. One is to Louie Bay to view a ship wreck. This was an ok hike but it certainly could be missed. The other hike is to Ferrier Point and then up to the summit of the Northwest Cone where there was a WW II radar installtion. We never spotted this trail but then we didn't look too hard either. There also is supposedly a large sea cave to the north of the beach that is worth exploring.

At the eastern end of First Beach there are some headlands that are might be passable at extremely low tide. There is an overland trail around this area, look for bouys marking the start of this trail, access is steep, rope is recommended. About 1km east from where the overland trail rejoins the beach we took another inland trail. This route was long and arduoous, we do not know if the beach is paasable at low tide, it would be worth checking this out if you are at low tide. There is also one point in the forest where the trail forks, the correct path is the one to the right, the other is a dead end. Beyond this point the hiking is good to Skuna Bay along rocky tidal shelves, small bays and beaches.. From Skuna Bay to Calvin Falls, the route here is along the beach.

Calvin Creek is tidal, it should be forded at low to mid tide. If the tide is high or there have been recent rains test the creek to see if it is passable. If you judge it is then ensure you unbuckle your waist and chest straps before crossing. Stay a couple of nights here is possible. We crossed at lowish tide with the water below our knees. The pool above the waterfall is very nice to soak in. It's warm, at least it was for us.

From Calvin Creek walk the beaches to Bajo Point crossing one stream en-route. Look for sea otters off Bajo Point and look for the ancient native site which was inhabited as much as 4,500 years ago. Note the grass mounds where the long houses once stood.. The route continues on to Beano Creek, mostly on pebble beach. Don't be tempted up into the forest by the annoyance of the pebble, the forest route is much more difficult. Walking in the steps of those in front of you makes the going easier.

Beano is a tidal river that should only be crossed at low tide. While possible to cross it at other times it can be waist deep and fast making for a scary and potentially dangerous crossing. There is also the possibility that a recent storm has built a dam across the mouth of the creek making crossing much easier. If this is the case cross the dam when you arrive in case rains during the night flood the creek and burst the dam.

An hour or so south of Beano the trail starts getting tougher, this is a long and difficult section through the forest with a few pocket beaches to give you short breathers. We started out going around a headland and then had to climb a cliff on a rope. It wasn't a sheer ascent but was tough enough with full packs. Apparently there is a trail around this section but it is supposedly very rough. We went through the woods and across several small pocket beaches. We stopped along the way to pick up water as we knew that water might not be available at the campsite. Fortunately there was water there although it was difficult to access and contained a lot of tannin.

We crossed Callicum Creek easily but have heard that it can be scary to cross if the water is high. We camped in this section and were able to find water in the forest.

You might also be able to find a good wilderness campsite somewhere along the long stretch of near continuous headlands approaching Maquinna Point. Visits to both Maquinna Point and the sea caves (both signed) are worthwhile. Maquinna Point is a 5 minute detour, the sea caves can provide shelter in the rain (but be sure to have an excape route in case of rising tides/storms). There is also a lovely cliff overlooking the sea. We were fortunate at this point to be able to observe a sea otter feasting on an urchin.

Miles before you get to what's marked as the Tidal Lagoon on the map, Yuquot will appear in the distance. This section offers a lot of variety; rocky headlands, beaches, and boggy forest.

The final portion of this day's hike involves crossing a tidal lagoon. We crossed at low tide and it was barely ankle deep but we heard of someone who recently did the trail who turned back when the water was chin deep! We definitely advise timing your arrival for low tide! Even then, if it's stormy or there have been heavy rains, you may encounter difficulties here.

We crossed a litle ways up from the shore. We used sandals for the crossing as we'd read that there are broken shells that can cut your feet.

Cross the lagoon before camping, you will find good campsites on the north side of the lagoon. Camp here, just an hour or so short of Yuquot, as camping is free. You will be charged a camping fee if you go on to Friendly Cove. There was a very small stream here but it might dry later in the season. You have to go up towards the forest to find the stream, it disappears into the rock. The stream was almost exactly where the sign telling us of the fee charged by the native band. A better landmark is the sea stack, it's just to the Friendly Cove side of it.

The last easy walk into Yuquot is scenic & relaxing. The last section offers a choice between forest and beach, the coast route is generally easier though the forest trail is nice as well. The church in Yuquot is great to visit and the history is wonderful to read

Timing is a key to doing the trail, the Uchuck only visits Friendly Cove on Wednesdays and Saturdays. You might be able to get a water taxi back but I wouldn't want to miss the Uchuck

Features

This trail features animals (Black bear, Coastal black-tailed deer, Cougar, Grey wolf, Sea otter), beaches, birds (Bald eagle), fishing, flowers, forests, marine mammals (California sea lion, Grey whale, Harbour seal, Orca), swimming, views, waterfalls and numerous varieties of shore birds.

Hazards

some exposure (steep dropoffs)
some streams/rivers must be forded (if near the beach wait for low tide; undo your hip belt when crossing; wear running shoes or sandals)
headlands must be negotiated, this requires either timing to pass at a low, outgoing tide or using overland trails where available
hypothermia
rouge waves (waves of unusual height that can occur even on calm days - be cautious when wading or fishing, don’t stand too close to the water while taking photos)
route-finding skills are required
some scrambling is required

Be wary of fallen logs with stubs of branches sticking out from them, you must stay alert when hiking amongst these as they can be almost invisible.

Comments

The first nation band at Friendly Cove has started charging a $40 fee to cross their land. Recent reports indicate that they will not let anyone board the Uchuck without a receipt.

Campsites along the trail

First Beach	Approx1.0 km	0 meters	No facilities	Water is plentiful.
Skuna Bay	Approx10.0 km	0 meters	No facilities	Water is limited.
	Good as an emergency camp, most will want to continue to Calvin Falls.
Calvin Falls	Approx13.0 km	0 meters	No facilities	Water is plentiful.
Beano Creek	Approx22.0 km	0 meters		Water is available quality is poor. The water at Beano Creek is salty, walk upstream to find tribuaties. Make sure to filter water in this area due to the extensive clear cutting.

History

This area has been settled by humans for 4500 years. The Nuu-Chah-Nulth¹ people made the west coast of Vancouver Island their home for centuries prior to the arrival of white men. Their culture was based on whaling² and fishing.

This area is one of the first areas on the west coast of Canada to be visited by Europeans. The frist white men to see the area were likely Russian but the first record is from the Spanish when Juan Josef Perez Hernandez traded with the aboriginals off Estevan Point in 1774, there is, however, no record of him landing. The next year Bruno de Hezeta on the "Santiago", and Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra on the "Sonora" sailed past the area, again there is no record of their landing.

Captain James Cook was the first Englishman known to set foot on Vancouver Island. He landed at Yuquot (Friendly Cove) on March 31, 1778 with his ships Discovery and Resolution. On board the Discovery with Captain Cook was midshipman George Vancouver who, later in life, would return to the Pacific Northwest to explore the area. Commanding the Resolution was William Bligh.

As Captain Cook approached to land at Yuquot the Mowachahts¹ called out "itchme nutka, itchme nutka" meaning "go around (to the sheltered cove). Cook mistook this as their name for the island and it has been known as "Nootka" ever since. On landing they were met by Chief Maquinna and discovered a summer village of 1500 people.

Cook spent the month of April refitting his ships, while doing this he discovered the sea otter pelts which became the basis for a booming fur trade that almost wiped out the otters from the west coast. Luckily they have since recovered.

On hearing of the lucrative fur trade the Spanish decided to assert their sovereignty. To this end, in 1789, they built Fort San Miguel on San Rafael Island adjacent to Friendly Cove. This was the most northerly fortification they established and was their only one in Canada. The Spanish seized a number of ships bringing Britain and Spain to the brink of war. The dispute was settled in 1792 with the signing of the Nookta Conventions at which time Spain ceded interest to Britain.

Tensions between the Nuu-Chah-Nulth¹ peoples and Britain escalated and, in 1803, Chief Maquinna (the son of the Maquinna who greeted Cook), attacked the trading vessel Boston. Only 2 of her 27 crew survived the attack, they were kept as Maquinna's slaves. An account of their ordeal was published in White Slave of the Nootka, by John Rogers Jewitt (ISBN 0-919214-51-7).

¹ The Mowachaht are the people who live at Friendly Cove (Yuquot) while Nuu-Chah-Nulth is the name of all peoples indigenous to the West Coast of Vancouver Island,

² This is the origin of native whaling on the west coast of Canada.

For additional information see:

Last hiked:July 12, 2003

View trail condition reports for this trail.