Replacing bindings in the fieldby Christine Cline

Replacing a broken binding in the field with the exact same model of binding is not as difficult as some of the binding replacement posts would lead you to believe. These are mostly related to replacing one type of binding with another, which requires drilling new holes. In the case of a field replacement, you would just be putting "new wine into an old bottle"-- pull and replace.

The three things you should be aware of during this are:

  1. You will need an official, okey-dokey posi-drive screwdriver in order to get enough grip on the screwheads to turn them without stripping the heads out.
  2. Do a dry run. Practice putting one on before you have to do it in the field, or at least take a close look at the binding and visualize how it will go together. I recently mounted a pair of Salomon Pilot bindings on a pair of skis, and found out that the bindings go together like a chinese jigsaw puzzle (I also found that an interchangable bit screwdriver wouldn't work on the front toe-piece screw-- the screwdriver has to fit through a hole in the binding clamping lever, and there isn't enough clearance for the fatter screwdriver shaft)
  3. Be gentle when backing the screws out of the skis. Apply torque evenly. Sometimes bindings are mounted by putting epoxy in the screwholes, which holds the binding in, but can make it difficult to break the screws loose, especially when it's cold. I've heard of this causing the cores of skis to be ripped up when the screws are backed out, but I've never seen it. Also, don't worry about applying glue to the new holes. At that point, you're just trying to keep the skis functional, and it's unlikely that the bindings will loosen up for the duration of the race. You can always take the bindings off and re-mount them properly when you get home.

All in all, this is a LOT easier than overhauling your bottom bracket!!

Have fun, and remember-- when you carry the spare bindings, you will never need to use them! ;-)